Liquid vs Core aeration?

Both types of aeration increase the movement of air, water and nutrients into the soil.

Core aeration is the tried and true method that has been used for many years. Cores of soil are removed from your lawn and deposited on top of the grass. This creates thousands of holes in the lawn that will reduce compaction, help with drainage and allow easy access directly to the root system. The negatives of core aeration include: requiring utilities lines, dog fences and irrigation lines to be marked, cores are left on the ground until a few rain falls (can be muddy if you have pets/kids in the lawn) and more costly service. The benefit is there is an instant reduction in compaction the day of completion.

Liquid aeration is based on new technology. Instead of manually making holes in the lawn, we can do this through science by spraying certain products on the lawn. This custom blend of humic acid, fulvic acid and other bio-stimulants work to create micro-fractures in the soil. No need to worry about cut utility lines or the mess of cores everywhere. This option also has a lower price tag than core aeration because it is less labor intensive. The results are long lasting but a little slower to work than core aeration. Click below to improve your soil today!

http://www.bastinturf.com/fall-renovations

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You might be seeing RED THREAD in your lawn.

With wet lawns, cloudy weather and the right temperatures, we can see diseases pop up this time of the year.  This appears as small reddish/brown areas in the lawn but they will go away. The good news is that this is not permanent.  The grass will push out new growth with dry, sunny weather. Here are some other tips that can help. 1. Try to mow only when the grass is dry to prevent spreading. 2. Avoid cutting more often once a week. 3. Do not run irrigation in the evenings. 4. Overseed this fall.  Newer grass varieties are developed to have more disease resistance than older varieties.  If you haven’t seeded in the last 5 years then this will improve color, disease and drought tolerance.

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Why should I care about grubs? All lawns have grubs present but too many can mean trouble.  Grubs feed on the roots of your grass.  Larva hatch around August 1st and feed until going deeper in the soil for the winter.  They continue feeding next spring and repeat the cycle.  By targeting the grubs now, we can prevent them through next summer.                                 What is the cost? One additional application at your regular price.  This will be added to your next scheduled visit. What about Moles? Grubs are a food source for moles among other things like earthworms, slugs and centipedes.  Grub prevention does not guarantee that you won’t have moles, but it can make your lawn less appetizing.  If you currently have moles in your lawn, we recommend calling the Moleliminator at 834-6653 for trapping. SUMMER UPDATE:  What is my next normal lawn treatment for? Summer time is when grassy weeds start to thrive.  Nutsedge, johnsongrass, spurge and any other visible weeds will be treated next.  Remember to raise your mowing height to 4 inches for summer!

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